Variety Jones
Dublin
At a glance
Variety Jones is a cozy and intimate dining experience located in the bustling district of The Liberties in Dublin, specifically at 79 Thomas Street. The restaurant offers a unique chef’s choice sharing menu, which is crafted to highlight seasonal ingredients and culinary innovation. With only 12 tables available, the establishment fosters a personal and exclusive atmosphere, making it a sought-after reservation for those who appreciate curated dining experiences. Its focus on a set menu ensures that the offerings are meticulously prepared and consistent in quality.
The culinary style at Variety Jones leans heavily on seafood, with a pescatarian menu option available upon request. However, those with vegetarian preferences or looking for plant-based meals might find it less accommodating, as the restaurant does not cater to these dietary choices. The menu is also not suitable for guests with dairy or egg allergies, emphasizing the importance of informing the staff about any dietary restrictions in advance. The lack of a waiting area necessitates prompt arrival at the time of the booking, enhancing the seamless flow of service within the compact space.
Known for its elegant yet simple setting, the restaurant does not feature a traditional waiting area and recommends that visitors arrive at the time of their reservation. The absence of specialized provision for children makes it an ideal spot for adult gatherings and intimate celebrations. Sitting times are structured to maintain a consistent service environment, with dinners available Wednesday through Saturday and a special Saturday lunch scheduled once a month.
Reviews
This was a very nice experience. The staff was friendly and the meal was an interesting culinary journey. A minor note one could make is that the course didn't seem to have much of a throughline as it bounced around culinary styles the included Irish, vietnamese, Italian, Belgian, and was that bite a Peruvian ceviche? It mixed traditional with innovation styles. The name is "variety Jones" though, so if anything perhaps it could be said that the throughline is the very lack of a throughline. I often find kitchens do their best work when they have a focus, but regardless this was a lovely meal, oh and the strawberry sorbet dish that closed the meal was delightfully clear and bright
Dining at Variety Jones was an exceptional experience from start to finish. The food was creative, beautifully presented, and full of bold, balanced flavours that showcased incredible attention to detail. Every course felt thoughtfully prepared, with high-quality ingredients and unique combinations that made the tasting menu unforgettable. What truly elevated the evening was the outstanding staff. The team was warm, knowledgeable, and attentive without ever being intrusive. They explained each dish with genuine enthusiasm and made us feel welcome and comfortable throughout the meal. The service matched the standard of the Michelin-starred cuisine perfectly, creating a relaxed yet refined atmosphere. Variety Jones fully deserves its reputation and Michelin star — a must-visit for anyone looking for a memorable dining experience in Dublin.
I found my experience of Variety Jones to be largely underwhelming, which is why I feel disillusioned with the majority of the reviews on here. The vibe of the place itself is great, I really enjoy its quirky interior and especially enjoyed the use of various cutleries. The staff were friendly, and with vibrant personalities. I especially liked our sommelier, Kathleen, who had a quiet air of confidence about her and was very respectful when dealing with us. The food however, left much to be desired. It started strong, with a variety of nibbles but each dish progressively became more linear with flavour profiles that would be more suitable for a more average, casual dining experience. I would've been satisfied with my experience at Variety Jones had the set menu been half the price but as a Michelin star dining experience, it was inevitably going to be on the pricier side. On the day I visited, the head chef was not there as I believe he had recently gotten married, but I don't think this excuses the drop in quality. As well as this, as they turn the tables once per evening, I felt immediately rushed to leave upon finishing my meal. I went to the bathroom before my final plate was collected and was told by my partner that after the plate was removed, they immediately placed the bill on the table, did not offer coffee and asked whether it would be cash or card. I think a supposed fine dining experience of this calibre should make for a relaxing experience and not one where you feel rushed and inconvenienced. I wouldn't be eager to go back here and I believe it's the first Michelin star restaurant I've been to where I think it does not warrant a star, it just isn't at that level.
Excellent evening here. Staff was amazing, lovely to see the calm and happy vibe in the kitchen vs a sometimes overly intense atmosphere one might expect. Their standard chefs menu approach allows focus on the overall evening with no concerns about choosing the right or wrong thing. Noise levels manageable and allow conversation comfortably, decor and music were fine, table sizes and comfort also had no issues. The food was a great blend of global influences and techniques without becoming cliche or too trend focused. The excitement was at its peak with the snacks and starters, settling in a comfortable spot as the courses went on. The chef and the staff would pass by with every course to explain the various items presented. Massive standouts were the tiny sourdough crumpet snacks topped with gribiche and egg which were truly a perfect bite, the dashi with the celeriac and seafood ramen with so much depth of flavor, and the fresh waffles with the duck paté that smelled absolutely amazing. The apple dessert, especially combined as it should be with the two types of ice cream that comes with was also very good despite being at risk of seeming commonplace given how many places do apple pies/tarts etc. The sommelier was also very calm and conversational, happy to go over the wine options in detail. Tried a light Rhone in the beginning and a lovely Slovenian option later on, both red. At €100 per head before drinks, given Dublin prices, the evening did not seem too expensive either for the level of service and techniques delivered.
